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Upstream: Notes from Rijnstrangen
River Engineering Delta Rhine Rhine-Nederrijn Probing Wandering Sediment
Fieldnote

Upstream: Notes from Rijnstrangen

Traveling back in time

Xandra van der Eijk
09 12 2025

Excerpt of a map of the Rhine showing the Rijnstrangen and Zevenaar polder area in 1834. Source: Gelderland in Beeld, Image GDC003000499

Feeling unrooted

I visit the house of my childhood

I remember the Campsis my mother planted, abundantly growing against the front of the house, every year decorating it in orange trumpet flowers.

I can see my old bedroom, which I shared with my sister. In my mind, I still smell the linoleum. 

My memories flow with the river — 

some are so old, they have sanded somewhere, dried up, engraved in my body. 

Others more recent, swampy, quiet, swaying, stirring sometimes. And every now and then, they flood my being. 

The Rijnstrangen were a lively part of the river until the Pannerdens Canal was realised in 1709, which altered this part of the river’s course, turning the meanders into a dynamic flood zone.

The reedlands came when the pumping station Oude Rijn was installed further downstream in 1884. It minimised the river flow, changing the entire character of the meanderings from high-dynamic to low-dynamic. Draining the water from the land led to an increasing drought and drove agricultural use of the polderland. In the 1960’s, a new pumping station, Kandia, was installed, and the water inlet at Lobith was blocked for water safety measures. From that moment, the direct connection with the Rhine was severed.

Today, rewilding efforts are working to regain some of the area’s liveliness. The Rijnstrangen are allowed to rise and fall with the river’s main water level with a threshold, making the area a more integrated part of the river system and adding more dynamism. Allowed, because the water levels are carefully regulated by pump station Kandia, and once every four years, they are lowered to expose the riverbed and allow the reeds to regenerate themselves.

Will the river ever flow at their own temperament again? What would the river grow here? Reeds? Forest? Swamp? An underwater world?

 

The careful craft and traces of the beaver.

Rhine kilometer 862 in Tolkamer, and across the Dutch-German border that runs in the middle, on the German banks.

 

The Rhine is marked along its entire length by large numbered signs on the bank: the kilometerraai. Each number indicates the distance downstream from the point where the river becomes navigable by ship.

The grittiness of a border town, once flourishing as a customs post, a toll house, Tolkamer. 

I wandered here 

In between things

Having lost something I never really had in the first place, one day, I went in search of it.

The cold, steel grey of water answered there was nothing there for me.

 

NAP +13 Metres

My sister shares her memories

Of my father living above the bar, a kind of skippers’ house.

We agree to bring some water with us, to keep.

I use my water bottle, she searches her car for make-shift tools to reach the river. Rhine is rushing underneath my feet, fast, determined, patterned, forceful.

 

Today the sun shines, tourists on the terraces. 

 

NAP + 7 Metres

Rhine Kilometer 862

A start of something, an almost-ending in metrics. 

Sand extraction site just outside of Tolkamer.

Leaving Tolkamer, the road runs alongside the river. Before long, the first industrial sites appear: clay brick stock, conveyor belts, stockpiles of pale gravel, and processing installations are sitting directly on the water’s edge.

Wezendonk Zand en Grind has been operating in this stretch since 1966, extracting sand and gravel from the floodplains between Tolkamer and Spijk. The Rhine deposits coarse sediment across its delta as flow velocity drops; this material feeds the Dutch and Belgian construction industries, washed and graded at the Vliegenwaard installation before being loaded directly onto barges. Wezendonk alone transfers between 600,000 and 800,000 tonnes annually.

The extraction has consequences that extend far downstream. Centuries of channelisation and decades of aggregate mining have starved the river of sediment, causing the riverbed to sink. At Tolkamer, Rijkswaterstaat has conducted experimental gravel supplementation as a kind of reverse-engineering: 70,000 cubic metres of grind added to the riverbed in 2016, and a further 100-centimetre layer in 2019, in an attempt to counteract erosion and maintain the navigable channel. The river is mined upstream and replenished at the border, continuously, in both directions at once.

Floating thoughts and a meandering of memories, impressions, and dreams about what lies ahead, I travel across the border, further upstream.

UPSTREAM was a field trip undertaken in light of the Hydroformations project.

 

In 2025, I traveled from my hometown, Zevenaar, to the Ruinaulta in Switzerland, following the Rhine River upstream.

These fieldnotes are my personal reflections, combined with background information. All views are my own, and any context shared is based on what I gathered underway. This text may be subject to errors and changes.

 

All photography by Xandra van der Eijk, unless otherwise stated.

 

Supported by Mondriaan Fund

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